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Reproduction by cuttings is a simple and fascinating method that gardeners can practice all year round, depending on the time that best suits a particular plant species. It’s a good time for begonias.

Two of my begonias in hanging baskets looked lethargic, with long bare stems hanging from bare feet and a few flowers appearing at the tips of the leaves. I knew that if I continued to grow them, new leaves could sprout on bare stems – probably not -. But since they are now actively growing, now is a great time to prune them and root the cuttings.

Of course, once I had done this with two begonias in hanging baskets, I started to examine the three begonias that were on my terrace, and after finding smaller plants, I started cutting them too.

I ended up cutting five different begonia plants, resulting in 7 gallon pots of about 12 pieces each-maybe 84 new plants if they are all rooted. What is the economic advantage?

This technique is the same for any type of pruning that you harvest – starting with walking around the neighborhood (take the cuttings only in public places), as well as in your own garden or at a friend’s house.

If several hours pass before you can plant them in the pot, take the cuttings as long as possible so that the liquids from the plant can be excreted naturally, as you can no longer extract these liquids from the roots. For example, a 20-inch long pruning means that you can make 3- to 6-inch cuttings (cutting 2 inches from the base) as roots with at least a viable 6-inch long tip.
Here’s how to create your own Premium product at a great price.

Cut the plant as low as possible – as close as possible to the roots – where the new foliage appears. This ensures that the node’s growth point is active. If you cut the plant deeper – especially with lignified stems – there is a risk that the dormant nodes will “wake up” and grow, which is unlikely.

Cut just under the knot with the foliage so that only a small piece of the stem protrudes from the foliage. Leaving a piece that is too large promotes rot, which can spread through the node to the base of the plant.

Cut long branches with several branches into separate pieces, each with at least 4 knots and a top with 2 pieces of foliage.

Cut the stem from the lowest node so that only a small end of the stem remains, as in number 2 above.

Leave the top 2 leaves, but cut the rest of the leaves at the base of each knot with a nail or clipper or gently remove them. It doesn’t matter if a small part of the inner pulp is visible – this is the Cambium layer from which new roots are formed.

If the two upper leaves are large, cut each one along the sheet in half. This allows the continuation of photosynthesis, but the energy of the plant is not exhausted until new roots are formed.

Remove the developing flowers. They want the energy of the plant to go to the formation of new roots without further flowering.

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